Green Means
Natural and Stunning Lime Rendered Walls
By Shannon Scott
Bare naked, lime plastered walls are beautiful. Properly mixed and applied, lime rendered
walls offer striking appeal and structural integrity far superior to ordinary
painted and textured wall board.
Lime’s greenest property is that it’s carbon
neutral. It gives off CO₂ during
manufacturing, but reabsorbs CO₂ after it sets.
Lime is recyclable and biodegradable.
It is resilient, anti-bacterial, and long lived - still in great shape
today on buildings plastered hundreds of years ago.
Lime renders
allow straw bale and other natural substrates to breathe, transpiring air and
moisture. Transpiration increases
negative ions into indoor atmosphere.
Negative ions make people feel better - as if standing near a waterfall
– so an indoor environment feels more soothing.
There are
two common lime renders, plaster and wash.
Lime plaster differs from wash in that it contains sand or other
aggregate to create a mortar or concrete-like consistency. Often natural fibers such as hair or chopped
straw are added for additional bond strength.
Plasters also contribute to a wall’s structural integrity as they cure
to form a solid sheathing.
Lime
washes are applied as thin slurries. They have no sand or fibers and do not add
texture or structural support. Lime
slurries are commonly referred to as white wash, yet they can be pigmented for
delightful appeal.
Lime needs three
factors to adhere well to a substrate or underlying surface: mechanical bond or “tooth”; absorbency; and
chemical compatibility.
Mechanical
bonds help lime to grip solid porous surfaces such as straw bales, bricks,
masonry blocks and other substrates. Smooth
surfaces may be lime washed by roughing them up using an abrasive like steel
wool or wire brushing, to create tooth, but not plastered. Smooth surfaces may include glass, dense
stones, or wood.
Absorbent
substrates allow lime plasters and washes to maximize adherence. If a few drops of water soak into the
substrate the surface is a good candidate for lime. If a substrate has been treated, perhaps with
paint that repels water, it will not support lime.
Chemical
compatibility also contributes to adherence.
Lime wash can be applied to glass, and most all natural course
materials, but not plastic, painted surfaces, or treated metals. Traditional cement stuccos take lime plasters
and washes quite well. However, tilt-up
smooth concrete panels often used in commercial buildings do not.
Hydrated
type S lime, common in the U.S., is available at hardware and building supply
stores. This lime is “hydrated” because
calcium oxide has been hydrated with just enough water to turn into calcium
hydroxide, which is the powder you are buying.
Industry reports state that type S lime once it is mixed with water is
ready for immediate use, but I recommend aging it for better consistency and
workability.
Making lime slake is easy. Powdered hydrated type S lime is mixed with
water to the desired consistency using a paddle attachment on an electric
drill. Then it slakes or cures in an air
tight environment. Large rubber garbage
cans with tight fitting lids work great for the entire mixing and aging
process. The longer lime is slaked the
better. It will develop a creamier
texture as particles become smaller, and be easier to work with. Three months has been a recommended minimum,
but we used it after only weeks – not ideal, but necessary when under
construction time constraints.
If lime
slake is exposed to air it will begin to set up and turn back into
limestone. Keep the lid on tight!
For lime
plaster, mix aged lime slake with sand and perhaps fibers. Lime-sand mortars have some elasticity and
better accommodate settling or movement in walls than other heavy wall finishes
that may contain cement.
If you
want to make ordinary textured sheet rock walls look richer use a clay product
such as American Clay, over sanded primer.
It comes in a variety of colors and finishes and offers the same
breathability and luster as lime mixes.
Note:
Wear gloves and eye protection when mixing or applying lime plaster or lime
wash. The chemical reaction in lime
plasters and washes is exothermic, meaning it exudes heat and can impart severe
chemical burns on skin or other soft tissue.
I have scars on one wrist from allowing lime plaster to remain there for
hours as I worked. I should have stopped
and flushed the lime off with cold water for at least 15 minutes to force
granules and chemicals from the surface.
As it turned out I ended up with an infection and 30 minutes of an
antibiotic I.V. drip in the M.D.’s office.
Be careful.

Making lime slake with a drill paddle attachment

A second coat of lime plaster
applied over straw bale walls.

The author applies American
Clay Loma over 2 coats of lime plaster.
Though pigmented lime would have been adequate, the clay added thickness
and richness.
I
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