Green Means
Cutting Heat Bills in Half
While you
may not get the last laugh at multi-national oil companies, you can at least
get in a little snicker. How? By buying less fuel.
If your
house is drafty and uses propane, natural gas, or electricity for heat you may
be able to cut fuel bills in half. A few
simple actions could make your home feel warmer, reduce green house gas
emissions, and save money.
First: Find
all the places where cold air is penetrating, or heat is escaping, from the
home. I promote do-it-yourself work, but you can also pay for an independent
home energy audit.
To find
leaks, burn an incense stick near areas you think may be leaking air. If you see smoke wafting abnormally, as if
from a slight breeze, you have a breech in the building’s envelope. If you feel cold penetrating floors or other
areas, these may also be breeches that don’t necessarily cause a draft. Cold areas are typically around windows, doors,
electrical outlets, ducts, pipes, ceilings, the base of exterior walls, and
floors. Anywhere there is a breech in a solid structure, such as where an
exhaust fan is vented, can be a source of air leaks.
Problem: Cold air entering around windows.
Single pane and solely metal clad windows cause a lot of
winter heat loss, as well as summer heat gain.
Windows may be good or even excellent quality, but if they
weren’t installed with a healthy band of caulk all around the back of the frame
when set in place, and/or the exterior edges weren’t caulked after
installation, cold air is likely entering your home.
Solution: Caulk the exterior and interior periphery of
all windows.
Purchase clear window caulk, or other appropriate color, to
match the home’s exterior. Read
labels. Some caulks are more flexible
and/or paintable than others. Buy what
suits your needs. Caulk around the
entire exterior periphery of the windows where they meet the siding or
stucco. Caulk interiors of windows where
frames and/or moldings meet drywall. Replace
single pane or all metal frame windows with high quality, double pane, Low E
windows.
Problem: Cold air
entering around doors.
Solution: Replace the
weather stripping and/or the door.
Home supply stores sell different types of stripping
depending upon how and where it will be used.
Check what you currently have and buy the same or similar type of new
stripping. Weather stripping often has to be replaced every so many years. It’s cheap and an easy energy fix. Sometimes in older or more cheaply built
homes, doors are just plain thin or lack insulation. Replace a thin door with one that’s
insulated.
Problem: Cold air
infiltrating from electrical outlets.
Often cold air can be felt by placing your hand in front of
an electrical outlet. This is because
cold air from either the attic or crawl space is entering living space via
conduits or chases.
Solution: Insulated
plug covers.
Outlet covers can be purchased at any hardware store and
really make difference. Every little bit
of cold air penetration adds up to increased heating bills. Take no breach for granted.
Problem: Heating
ducts not connected or sealed tightly.
If your house has duct work that conducts forced air heat,
ducts may be loose or not sealed tightly.
Examining ducts isn’t the most fun thing to do as it often involves
crawling under the house or in an attic.
Solution: Secure duct
connections tightly.
Seal with silver tape made for ducts. It’s thinner and shinier than duct tape. While duct tape may be purported to fix
everything, it really isn’t the best thing to use on ducts as it dries out and
tends to fall off over time – especially in Nevada’s arid climate.
Problem: Cold air
around pipes.
Plumbing or gas pipes entering living space from attics,
crawl spaces, or simply underground can also bring in cold temperatures.
Solution: Wrap water
pipes with pipe insulation and seal areas where they enter the home with caulk
or non-formaldehyde foam.
Never use regular spray foam insulation where it can off gas
toxins into interior spaces. Use green,
family safe products such as BioBased – a soy based polyurethane foam
insulation.
Problem: Heat
escaping up through the ceiling.
Solution: Insulate
the heck out of your ceiling.
Make sure your ceiling will support the weight of sprayed in
cellulose or other heavier type insulation.
Most ceilings will be accept holding up to a value of R-60, the maximum
recommended as after that there is a point of diminishing return on insulation
investments. Numerous green insulation
products are available: Green Fiber cellulose, Igloo cellulose Thermafleece
sheep’s wool, Ultratouch – recycle denims, and the list goes on.
Problem: Cold
penetrating from the bases of exterior walls.
Box sills or band joists which are the lower pieces of wall
construction between the main floor and the ground typically have limited
insulation. Floors often feel colder
around the base of exterior walls.
Solution: Use spray
foam or batt insulation.
Crawling under the house to insulate the band joists is an
ugly job, but worth doing. Put on the
coveralls, wear gloves, and get over the arachnophobia.
Problem: Drafts and
cold that penetrate the main floor.
Solution: Insulate under floors.
Batt insulation is likely the easiest to install under
subfloors. Close crawl space vents
during cold snaps or during the two coldest months of the year. Make sure there that your crawl space is
adequately vented to prevent moisture buildup, harmful molds, and mildews. If crawl space vents are not movable, replace
them with opening and closing models.
Fuel
companies have plenty of money, so don’t give them yours. Making your home’s envelop tight may save you
enough money to send your children to top universities, or just retire a little
earlier.
Shannon Scott
is a green home owner, designer, and builder.
She’d love to hear from you. Send
comments or questions to greenmeansnv@gmail.com
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