Green Means
A Passive Solar Design Matrix
A Passive Solar Design Matrix
By Shannon Scott,
Green Home Owner, Designer, Builder
Kermit the
Frog said, “It’s not easy being green.” I
like Kermit, but have to disagree with him on this point. Building and living “green” is a lot easier
and cheaper than people may think. Building a green home, or living greener in an
existing home, will save money, make you and your family feel better, and help
to sustain the natural environment.
Going green
includes: increasing energy efficiency, using renewable energy sources, reducing
fossil fuel dependence; using products that are sourced or manufactured using
environmentally sustainable practices; and creating healthier indoor and
outdoor home environments.
My husband
and I built our own energy efficient green home a few years ago. I designed the home and the two of us built
it with zero hired help. We filled our
250 gallon propane tank in the fall of 2008 and just had it filled for the
second time last month. This made our
average propane cost over the last three years $12.50 per month.
We use electricity
from the grid, but the three primary factors that make our home efficient are passive
solar, active solar, and energy efficient appliances and fixtures.
The most
critical, influential element for energy efficiency is sound passive solar
design. Passive solar differs from active solar in that there are no solar
collectors, no moving parts, and no mechanical features – except maybe an attic
fan. Passive solar elements must work
together in what I have termed a solar matrix.
Solar features will not be effective in isolation. A passive solar
design matrix includes:
Southern Orientation
If you are designing
or planning to build a home, orient the longest wall along an east-west axis so
that the wall is facing as close to true south as possible – within 15 degrees
either way is good. For our northeastern
Nevada location, orienting slightly to the east keeps hot afternoon sun out
during late summer and early fall. Our
home is oriented 12 degrees east of true south.
We capture grand views of the Ruby Mountains and the open spaces south
of Spring Creek.
Adequate Glass
Glaze the
south wall (glazing is another word glass) with 7-12% of the home’s total square footage. Windows must be
energy efficient, low-E, double or triple paned, argon filled and not vinyl
clad. Windows that are vinyl clad on the
interior give off airborne urea-formaldehyde and pollute indoor air
quality. I’ll write more about indoor
air quality in a later column. Use top
quality wood windows with aluminum exterior cladding. Good windows make a house. Spend the money. In our home the south wall has 11% glazing,
264 square feet of glass, which includes big windows and a couple of French
doors. This affords good winter sun
penetration and connection with the outdoors.
Appropriately Sized Roof
Overhangs or Eave Depths
Sun is
highest in the sky during hot summer months and lowest, traversing the southern
horizon during winter. To keep hot summer sun out you need adequate or roof
eaves depths. Correct eave depths are
based on the height of window sills off the porch or base of the wall, and the
site’s latitude. For our Elko location,
about 41 degrees north latitude, with a sill height of 2 ft. above the floor,
and an 8 ft. wall to the roof, eave depth should be about 2’8”.
Thermal Mass
Thermal masses
are dense, medium to dark colored floors and walls that absorb sun’s heat as it
enters south facing windows during the day.
The mass, such as concrete or tile, holds heat and radiates it back into
the room after the sun has set. We built
a concrete slab 2 ft. above grade, and tiled the entire floor with Mexican
Saltillo tile that is a medium terra cotta color. 6 inches of base sand, 4 inches of concrete
(thicker on edges), and slightly more than 1 inch of tile make 11 inches of
heat retaining mass.
Breeze Pathways
In our high
desert environment we don’t need air conditioning if we incorporate adequate
breeze pathways throughout the house.
Floor plan layouts should allow breezes to circulate from room to room,
or across rooms, so prevailing breezes flush the home with fresh cool air. During summer months, windows should be
opened at night and shut first thing in the morning. Breeze pathways also help improve indoor air
quality.
Beefy Attic and Wall
Insulation
Insulate
the heck out of your attic. Use R-50 or
greater Green Fiber cellulose, Whisper Wool, Warmcel 100, Ultratouch, or other
green, sustainably manufactured, family safe insulation. We opted for Green Fiber insulation blown in deep
enough to achieve a value of R-60. Walls
are 18 in thick, tightly compressed, straw bales for an approximate R-40 value.
Reflective
Roofing Material Color
Roofs
should reflect heat up, not absorb it into attic or living space. Choose a light colored and/or reflective roof
material. We used ASC’s Galvalume. It’s excellent quality, silver-grey in color,
and fits well with our rural environment.
Tight Building
Envelop
Seal
windows and doors well with non urea-formaldehyde caulk and/or weather
stripping. If there are unwanted drafts
in a home find the source and seal appropriately with green, family safe,
materials. BioBased Insulation is a
soy-based spray foam for spot sealing and other applications.
Well
Ventilated Attic
If
your home has a ridge vent do not install an attic fan, as it will reduce the
draw effect of the ridge vent. Attic
fans make for cooler attic space so the heat does not migrate down into the
home on hot summer days.
These
are the essentials of an efficient passive solar matrix, the single biggest
step to living greener and saving money.
If you are an owner-builder, fear not and venture forth. Your energy efficient home will be fabulous.
For questions, help designing a green, environmentally sound home, straw bale building, or how to incorporate more environmentally responsible choices into your life. Just e-mail me:
deepgreenresults@gmail.com
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